Hi Again,
Some of you would like to know the number of boards to purchase to build the frame of the 4 x 8 foot coop. Here is an easy guide.
Buy 4 pieces of the 8' cedar or treated deck-board or the 2x6 ACQ lumber that will be ripped in two to make the frame. Buy 4 pieces of the 10' lengths as well. This will give you a few extra pieces for error and your own creative modifications. The 10' lengths will be cut in two to 5', then ripped in two, producing 4, 5' 2"x3" framing members. The 8' pieces will be cut to 4' or used as the full 8'.
So, give this list to your lumber yard.
4 @ 10' 5/4" or 2" x 6" x #3 or better cedar or treated lumber
10 @ 8' 5/4" or 2" x 6", #3 or better cedar or treated lumber
I would not rip all of the lumber until you are ready to use it. Two reasons, The lumber tends to warp more easily after being ripped. Also, you may be able to return a few of the sticks if you build carefully and creatively.
If you choose to use the 2"x3" SPF (Spruce, Pine or Fir, untreated) lumber, you will not need to rip the wood. However, plan to seal this untreated lumber more thoroughly, especially where the wood comes in contact or near contact with the moist earth.
Happy Building!
Dennis
Wednesday, April 4, 2012
Use of Treated Lumber
Hi Builders,
It has been awhile since I have updated my plans, so please consider this my latest update.
First, there has been quite a debate around using pressure treate for the framing of the coop. Here is the latest word I have found on it.
http://www.ehow.com/facts_5583661_treated-wood-dangerous-chickens_.html
I suggest you search the web and make your own decision. I am currently using ripped 2x6 ACQ lumber for the framing and am satisfied with the results. This should reduce the cost of both materials and labor to finish the cedar framing as specified in the plans. You have essentially a 2" x 3" framing member that can be screwed together with 3 1/2" deck screws. This eliminates the need to use the plywood gussets to hold the frame together. The younger builders might not enjoy this method as much, as it does take away lots of hammering of the gussets.
Also, the wire I am currently using is a welded 1" x 2". Here in the midwest, I have yet to find a critter that will fit through this size opening. If you know of any threats in your area, please let me know. I suppose a smaller snake could make it through and eat the eggs but this seems rare.
Also, I am trying out a new roofing product called Ondura. You can now order it through our local big box store. It is a corrugated rubberized asphalt, not as attractive as the metal, but easier to work with. It also eliminates the need to trim the sharp metal edges. Please let me know what you think of this product if you try it out. It comes in a couple of different colors.
Thanks for purchasing these plans. As you can see from the photobucket site there are many different variations on it, so let your creative juices flow.
Happy building and chicken raising!
Dennis
It has been awhile since I have updated my plans, so please consider this my latest update.
First, there has been quite a debate around using pressure treate for the framing of the coop. Here is the latest word I have found on it.
http://www.ehow.com/facts_5583661_treated-wood-dangerous-chickens_.html
I suggest you search the web and make your own decision. I am currently using ripped 2x6 ACQ lumber for the framing and am satisfied with the results. This should reduce the cost of both materials and labor to finish the cedar framing as specified in the plans. You have essentially a 2" x 3" framing member that can be screwed together with 3 1/2" deck screws. This eliminates the need to use the plywood gussets to hold the frame together. The younger builders might not enjoy this method as much, as it does take away lots of hammering of the gussets.
Also, the wire I am currently using is a welded 1" x 2". Here in the midwest, I have yet to find a critter that will fit through this size opening. If you know of any threats in your area, please let me know. I suppose a smaller snake could make it through and eat the eggs but this seems rare.
Also, I am trying out a new roofing product called Ondura. You can now order it through our local big box store. It is a corrugated rubberized asphalt, not as attractive as the metal, but easier to work with. It also eliminates the need to trim the sharp metal edges. Please let me know what you think of this product if you try it out. It comes in a couple of different colors.
Thanks for purchasing these plans. As you can see from the photobucket site there are many different variations on it, so let your creative juices flow.
Happy building and chicken raising!
Dennis
Monday, November 9, 2009
Alternative Materials
A builder has reported that after presenting the materials/cut list at the local lumber yard, the yard worker shook his head in confusion. It seems that the materials used here in the Midwest are not so common on the west coast. Please don't get discouraged if this happens to you. The idea is to use the most common (read least expensive) materials needed to do the job. Cedar in California is pretty scarce from the reports I have received. It may take a bit of extra work, but I am sure that with a little searching and talking over with your lumber yard people that you will be able to come up with suitable and affordable materials. Please don't think that anything on the list is absolutely necessary. The idea is to keep the coop looking nice and the cost low. Think alternative.
Making it easy
Hi,
Here is a post from a builder who suggests framing lumber straight out of the lumber yard.
Hey Dennis,
Just got through with the 4X8 playhouse and thought I'd pass this along. First I made all of the cuts per plan at a friends house and had no issues. The second is by doubling the uprights to the right of the door I was able to cover all of the sides with a 50 foot roll of 36 inch wire. Everything was ripped from 5/4x6's but I cut extras to cover ones that may have warpped. If I built another I would use a full board there instead. Just thought I would pass it on and will try and update to the blog if it's ok.
Scott James
Here is a post from a builder who suggests framing lumber straight out of the lumber yard.
Hey Dennis,
Just got through with the 4X8 playhouse and thought I'd pass this along. First I made all of the cuts per plan at a friends house and had no issues. The second is by doubling the uprights to the right of the door I was able to cover all of the sides with a 50 foot roll of 36 inch wire. Everything was ripped from 5/4x6's but I cut extras to cover ones that may have warpped. If I built another I would use a full board there instead. Just thought I would pass it on and will try and update to the blog if it's ok.
Scott James
Error
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Error on 8 x 8 Materials List
Another error has been found on the Materials/Cut List for the 8 x8 plans. The roofing materials from Metal sales should measure 32" wide, by 52" long roof panels.
Note that in some locations around the US the roof panels are available in either 24" wide or 36" wide panels. Here in Wisconsin I found 32" wide panels. As long as the width can add up to an even 96" you don't have to cut the last panel. The metal can be easily cut if needed, however.
If you are building the coop 8 feet long, you will need4, 24" wide panels per side of roof or a total of 8.
Posted by Dennis at 6:52 PM
Labels: Roof panel error 8 x 8 model
0 comments:
Error on 8 x 8 Materials List
Another error has been found on the Materials/Cut List for the 8 x8 plans. The roofing materials from Metal sales should measure 32" wide, by 52" long roof panels.
Note that in some locations around the US the roof panels are available in either 24" wide or 36" wide panels. Here in Wisconsin I found 32" wide panels. As long as the width can add up to an even 96" you don't have to cut the last panel. The metal can be easily cut if needed, however.
If you are building the coop 8 feet long, you will need4, 24" wide panels per side of roof or a total of 8.
Posted by Dennis at 6:52 PM
Labels: Roof panel error 8 x 8 model
0 comments:
Framing lumber tips
Hi,
Here is a post from a builder who suggests framing lumber straight out of the lumber yard.
Hey Dennis,
Just got through with the 4X8 playhouse and thought I'd pass this along. First I made all of the cuts per plan at a friends house and had no issues. The second is by doubling the uprights to the right of the door I was able to cover all of the sides with a 50 foot roll of 36 inch wire. Everything was ripped from 5/4x6's but I cut extras to cover ones that may have warpped. If I built another I would use a full board there instead. Just thought I would pass it on and will try and update to the blog if it's ok.
Scott James
Here is a post from a builder who suggests framing lumber straight out of the lumber yard.
Hey Dennis,
Just got through with the 4X8 playhouse and thought I'd pass this along. First I made all of the cuts per plan at a friends house and had no issues. The second is by doubling the uprights to the right of the door I was able to cover all of the sides with a 50 foot roll of 36 inch wire. Everything was ripped from 5/4x6's but I cut extras to cover ones that may have warpped. If I built another I would use a full board there instead. Just thought I would pass it on and will try and update to the blog if it's ok.
Scott James
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Assembly Sequence
The construction takes place by building the 4 flat panel wall and bottom flat panel frame. Begin with the bottom frame, laying it out on a large flat surface. Next, lay out the two gable end walls, making sure that they are the same size and that the plywood triangle pieces have the same angles. Follow this with the 2 long walls. The plywood that makes up the exterior of the roost box is attached to the flat panels at this stage. Don't forget to cut in the cleanout and egg doors as well. The plexi-glass can be installed at this time.
Once you have built the 5 flat panels, stand them up on the flat panel floor frame and check your dimensions. If all lines up properly, lay the panels down again and install the wire over them. Before installing the wire, make sure that the diagonal measurements of each frame are equal to insure that the corners are square. This is a old carpenter's trick. After the wire is secure, stand the wall up again over the floor frame and secure the corners with screws or angle brackets.
Next, complete the three interior wall of the roost box. You will need to install additional framing inside the coop to support the plywood pieces. Install as needed. Then, install the bottom of the roost box, followed by the front interior panel with the sliding door. Finally, install the top flat plywood ceiling with the vent holes.
Finally, install the roofing material and all the trim, hinges, roost bar, etc.
This sequence is only one of many ways to build this coop. I suggest you carefully think through each stage of construction, taking into account your physical limitations. There is not perfect sequence, but with a little forethought, you will greatly reduce the inevitable frustration that comes with such a building project. Stay focused when building, but stop occasionally to plan ahead.
Some like to prefinish the wood before assembly. I like this idea. I cut the framing members, then coated them with the Lifetime Wood Preservative. I gave the plywood a single roller coat of paint before cutting it as well.
Once you have built the 5 flat panels, stand them up on the flat panel floor frame and check your dimensions. If all lines up properly, lay the panels down again and install the wire over them. Before installing the wire, make sure that the diagonal measurements of each frame are equal to insure that the corners are square. This is a old carpenter's trick. After the wire is secure, stand the wall up again over the floor frame and secure the corners with screws or angle brackets.
Next, complete the three interior wall of the roost box. You will need to install additional framing inside the coop to support the plywood pieces. Install as needed. Then, install the bottom of the roost box, followed by the front interior panel with the sliding door. Finally, install the top flat plywood ceiling with the vent holes.
Finally, install the roofing material and all the trim, hinges, roost bar, etc.
This sequence is only one of many ways to build this coop. I suggest you carefully think through each stage of construction, taking into account your physical limitations. There is not perfect sequence, but with a little forethought, you will greatly reduce the inevitable frustration that comes with such a building project. Stay focused when building, but stop occasionally to plan ahead.
Some like to prefinish the wood before assembly. I like this idea. I cut the framing members, then coated them with the Lifetime Wood Preservative. I gave the plywood a single roller coat of paint before cutting it as well.
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